I disclaim all responsibility if you break or damage your equipment when following this tutorial. You’ll follow this tutorial at your own risks
NOTE: The 2.4G version is still under testing.
My 2.4G version is working with the diagram shown below but the module seems to be defective since there is continuity between ANT and ANT GND which causes the module to have a terrible range. Thus, for now I won’t be able to make sure that the 2.4G version is fully working. Then, information concerning the 2.4G is only provided for beta testing.
German version translated by Christoph Bimmer here
Since I finally have my HD’s, I’m going to explain you how make a module for Fatshark Dominator goggles (or other Fatshark goggles, but this will require more work).
Before getting started with the making, we’re going to see how Fatshark’s modules work.
I. How do Fatshark’s Modules work?
Fatshark’s modules are basically made of :
- A PCB plate
- An RF module
- Headers (pins)
- Female SMA Connector
Of course, all put together, ready to use!
But, we are lucky, Boscam sells (like Airwave, the company that makes Fatshark’s RF modules) the RF module only.
After reviewing the two datasheets, we can see that basically, the two RF modules (Fatshark’s and Boscam’s RX5808) work exactly the same way. Despite the fact that the pins aren’t in the same spots :
Now that we know how these modules work, we’ll be able to make one ourselves!
II. Making your Fatshark goggles’ Module :
What we’ll need :
- A PCB plate (At least 43x25mm), I bought the 70x30mm one
- An RF module (RX2188 for 2.4G or RX5808 for 5.8G)
- Headers (pins)
- A female SMA connector
- Servo wires
- Hot glue
- Soldering gear
> Cutting the PCB plate :
Take your PCB plate and cut it out to get it 42.1×24.81mm big.
After some cutting, there you go!
> Soldering the headers (pins) :
Be careful, usually the headers are a little bit short. push them a little bit forward with a plier.
Once they’re are 6.5mm long, you can solder them like this :
> SMA connector soldering :
Surely one of the toughest parts, soldering it correctly. The SMA needs to be straight and shouldn’t obstruct the door closing.
I soldered a servo wire on ANT GND (see the diagram below) on one side and on the SMA on the other side. I then soldered the SMA’s inner pin on ANT (see the diagram below). I highly recommend you to add some hot glue in order to strengthen it.
Before gluing the module on the PCB, I added some tape on the PCB to avoid short-circuit. Then I glued it in order to have the SMA connector matching the door’s hole. The SMA connector must be in the PCB’s upper left corner.
> Connecting the module to the pins :
We’re now going to cut the servo wires and bare them a little bit on both ends. The wire’s length depending on which pins you’re going to solder. The length being different for each pin.
And then we can start soldering the wires on the RF module and the pins following this pin-out :
And for the 2.4G Module :
Here is what you get :
Don’t forget to check that all of your soldered joints are independent from each other before hot gluing.
You can switch channels exactly like the stock module 😉
And you’re done, you can now use very cheap VTXs for only $15!