DISCLAIMER
I disclaim all responsibility if you break or damage your equipment when following this tutorial. You’ll follow this tutorial at your own risks
NOTE: The 2.4G version is still under testing.
My 2.4G version is working with the diagram shown below but the module seems to be defective since there is continuity between ANT and ANT GND which causes the module to have a terrible range. Thus, for now I won’t be able to make sure that the 2.4G version is fully working. Then, information concerning the 2.4G is only provided for beta testing.
German version translated by Christoph Bimmer here
Since I finally have my HD’s, I’m going to explain you how make a module for Fatshark Dominator goggles (or other Fatshark goggles, but this will require more work).
Before getting started with the making, we’re going to see how Fatshark’s modules work.
I. How do Fatshark’s Modules work?
Fatshark’s modules are basically made of :
- A PCB plate
- An RF module
- Headers (pins)
- Female SMA Connector
Of course, all put together, ready to use!
But, we are lucky, Boscam sells (like Airwave, the company that makes Fatshark’s RF modules) the RF module only.
There are two versions : for 2.4G (RX2188) and 5.8G (RX5808).
After reviewing the two datasheets, we can see that basically, the two RF modules (Fatshark’s and Boscam’s RX5808) work exactly the same way. Despite the fact that the pins aren’t in the same spots :
Now that we know how these modules work, we’ll be able to make one ourselves!
II. Making your Fatshark goggles’ Module :
What we’ll need :
- A PCB plate (At least 43x25mm), I bought the 70x30mm one
- An RF module (RX2188 for 2.4G or RX5808 for 5.8G)
- Headers (pins)
- A female SMA connector
- Servo wires
- Hot glue
- Soldering gear
> Cutting the PCB plate :
Take your PCB plate and cut it out to get it 42.1×24.81mm big.
After some cutting, there you go!
> Soldering the headers (pins) :
Be careful, usually the headers are a little bit short. push them a little bit forward with a plier.
Once they’re are 6.5mm long, you can solder them like this :
> SMA connector soldering :
Surely one of the toughest parts, soldering it correctly. The SMA needs to be straight and shouldn’t obstruct the door closing.
I soldered a servo wire on ANT GND (see the diagram below) on one side and on the SMA on the other side. I then soldered the SMA’s inner pin on ANT (see the diagram below). I highly recommend you to add some hot glue in order to strengthen it.
Before gluing the module on the PCB, I added some tape on the PCB to avoid short-circuit. Then I glued it in order to have the SMA connector matching the door’s hole. The SMA connector must be in the PCB’s upper left corner.
> Connecting the module to the pins :
We’re now going to cut the servo wires and bare them a little bit on both ends. The wire’s length depending on which pins you’re going to solder. The length being different for each pin.
And then we can start soldering the wires on the RF module and the pins following this pin-out :
And for the 2.4G Module :
Here is what you get :
Don’t forget to check that all of your soldered joints are independent from each other before hot gluing.
You can switch channels exactly like the stock module 😉
And you’re done, you can now use very cheap VTXs for only $15!
Hey there,
Thanks for the tutorial, it is a couple of years that I am using the RX5808 module in my Dominator goggles without a single issue, but there is no way I can make the RX2188 work!
When you say “the 2.4G version is still under testing” what do you mean?
In my case I solder everything up but the goggles do not recognize a module is plugged in and all I see is a dark gray screen.
I also have an RX2189 module, but same story: gray screen.
did you encounter the same problem? Why do you think nobody does the same thing and everyone buys the premade modules (only for 2.4G, because for 5.8G the DIY way is pretty common..)
Thanks!
Gio
Hi gio,
I have tried to reach you on the phone today and I missed out when you had called me back.
I’ll update the article concerning the 2.4G version. Mine is working but I have continuity between ANT and ANT GND whereas there should not be one. This caused the module to have a terrible range despite working correctly.
I don’t understand why there is no post about it since it’s not that hard to make. However, since my current RX2188 is apparently defective, perhaps I’ll end up buying a Fatshark 2.4G module…
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Hi, can I use your pictures on our blogsite (fpv-team.de) and make a translate entry into geman with a copyright backlink to your site?
Hi Christoph,
Sure, as long as there is the copyright backlink 😉
Don’t forget to give the link to your translation when it’s done, I’ll add the link at the beginning of this tutorial for german speakers 😉
Hi Eurny,
thanks a lot
You can find our german translated version there: https://fpv-team.de/blog-aktuelles-news/entry/video/guenstiges-fatshark-diy-fuer-5-8-ghz-video-rx-modul
Nice day!
It works, but I am unable to change channels with buttons on the fatsharks.
Have you wired correctly the three wires going on CH1, CH2 and CH3?
If they’re not wired correctly you won’t be able to change channels =S
Otherwise your module might be defective
Hi Eurny,
found this site today because I am waiting for the Dominator V2. I fly with video in 2.4G in all my miniquads and other FPV stuff, using the small 200mW TX24200 modules.
I now need a RX 2.4G module for the Dom’s, if it could be DIY…great.
I see people having some trouble with the RX2188/89, in the end did you manage to solve the problem? Do you know if the Dom’s use the SPI interface or the binary logic to change channels? Does anybody already test the CH3-1 output logic to see what going on there when you change channels, that could help troubleshooting why there is no display on the googles.
I already use the RX6788 on a DIY diversity, works well, I will try with a spare I have at home. Only problem with this module is that it uses CH3-1 and BX.
BR, Luis
Hi Luis,
Thank your for your comment! First of all, my 2.4Ghz version with RX2188 worked fine in my Fatshark dominator goggles. I could change channels just like my Fatshark’s RF module. However, due to a manufacturing defect on the RX2188, there was a short between the ANT pin and GND. Thus, no matter what antenna I’d use, the range was very short. So the DIY module was working flawlessly, the only issue was the manufacturing defect of the RX2188.
Since, I have read many people had manufacturing defects on RX2188 modules, I haven’t bought one to try again but as long as you get a well working RX2188, you can use the schematics above and it should work like a charm ^^
PS: Sorry for the long delay, I have been extremly busy recently and didn’t take a look at my website.
Would you happen to have a resource for the tx24200 ? thanks.
No I don’t. However I know some people managed to make it work!
Hi Eurny,
I have post my module pictures in RCGroups, is working fine with the RX6788, but only did two field tests, I now fly mini quads most of the time, but I went to at least 200m and the picture was fine. My module also shows a short on the antenna while disconnected from power, probably is the way it is to protect the circuit while not transmitting, but this is only a guess.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2369969#post33207220 .
Hi Luis,
Nice knowing that it works! I might give it a shot too once I’m more available!
As for the RFin continuity, that’s pretty awkward but since you get a correct range I guess you’re lucky!
Hi Eurny,
received today a FX159-R, a new receiver module available at BG or other sources, with support for 32CH (no Raceband), the pinout is fully compatible with Fatshark, just don’t connect S1 and S2 to the goggles but instead to a dip switch to select bands.
http://www.banggood.com/FX159R-5_8G-32CH-6_5MHz-Stereo-Dual-Track-Receiving-Module-p-1046266.html
Let’s see how it performs.
Thank you for the input, it may be a good alternative 😉
Hi,
Thanks for the tutorial, its a great project which I’m going to start making next week.
I’m just wanting to find out how you know what channel the module is on when you are switching channels?
Also do you have to do the SPI mod to the Boscam module to get the channel switching to work via the goggles?
Many thanks,
Matt
Hi Matt,
Since the module used is 8 channels, you can switch between channels like you’d do on any other Module. There are no switches to change bands because you’re limited with the Boscam band.
No need to do the SPI mod, the switching process works “out of the box” 😉